Taverna-style eateries are bringing a relaxed Hellenic taste to our shores, just in time for the height of summer. Walk down a side street near Sydney’s Dulwich Hill tram station, on Gadigal land, in the soft evening light and soon you’re enveloped by the scent of lamb roasting over fire and the earthy fragrance of oregano. That’s the team at Olympic Meats (olympicmeats.shop) firing up the grill to feed gyros and souvlakia to queues of hungry locals and out-of-towners, who feast at the eatery’s al fresco tables or on the walk home. A few suburbs away in Redfern, hundreds of diners at a time will be devouring kokkoretsi and kalamari – along with lashings of ouzo – under a towering bougainvillea at Olympus (below).
In Brisbane (Meanjin), guests are transported to the city of Thessaloniki at Yamas in West End or begin their stay at The Calile Hotel in Fortitude Valley with a breakfast of strapatsada and sikoti by the pool at onsite eatery Hellenika. In South Australia’s Port Willunga (Wirruwarrungga), about an hour south of Adelaide (Tarntanya) on Gulf St Vincent, the clifftop Star of Greece (starofgreece.com.au) is celebrated as one of the state’s most treasured restaurants. The focus is familiar: fresh produce served simply with a sense of heartfelt generosity. It’s no wonder Australians feel very much at home with Greek food.
Recently, a rolling blue-and-white wave of laidback new Greek eateries has landed around the country. Angie Giannakodakis, co-owner of Taverna, which opened its doors in Melbourne’s Brunswick East (Bulleke-Bek) last year, says it’s not surprising considering the Greek way of eating values comfort and hospitality, a succour when times feel tough. “It’s about familiarity and nostalgia, wrapped up into this loving gift of a simple dish,” she says. “There’s freedom in Greek food. You can match things up however you like. Nothing is wrong. Everything’s just right.”
The current Grecian swell is so pervasive that in Sydney’s Bondi (Boondi), seaside restaurant Promenade has pivoted from its original modern Australian roots to reopen as relaxed Greek diner Etheus (above), dishing up mezze, octopus and chicken cooked over fire, plus big plates of spanakorizo for the table. “The Greek direction felt natural,” says head chef Stav Stavrou, whose Cypriot heritage shines through in each dish. “This isn’t a place for fanciness, bravado or formalities – it’s about tasty shared food, groups of friends, smiles and generosity, all while looking towards the beach. Like a home by the ocean.”
Here, as in the other new venues, only the freshest produce makes it to the table. Proteins are seasoned simply and flavoured with lemon, herbs, olive oil and the sizzle of the flame. Vegetables are often picked straight from the garden, wines taste of rocky soils and sea air, and plates are made for sharing and connection.
“Taverna is the type of place that welcomes you in, no matter what you’ve got in your wallet or have been through in your life,” says Giannakodakis. “You can buy a beautiful drink, share some snacks and just feel human again.”
Below, more Greek restaurants to try around Australia.
Vasili’s Table, SA
It may be new but old-school rules at this family-run coastal venue in Adelaide’s West Beach. Eggs come from chef and owner Vasilis Petropoulos’s chooks, honey is courtesy of the family’s bees and almost everything else is sourced from trusted producer mates before being cooked long and slow over coals. Eating here feels like a celebration and everything is designed to share.
Elliniko, SA
Greek chefs don’t get enough credit for their chips. Dusted with oregano and fried to a golden crisp, it’s one of the best possible ways to serve a spud. This place in Malvern, just south of the Adelaide CBD, does a great chip – served wrapped inside souvlaki or on their own – but there’s a lot more besides. The Elliniko platter is a good place to start, piled with yiros meats, halloumi, skewers, dips and salads, and the loukoumades or baklava is a sweet, syrupy way to round things off.
Vrina Mezze Bar, Qld
Water views, live music and sunset cocktails: this Sunshine Coast taverna overlooking the Mooloolah River at Parrearra channels the best of Greece. A share plate of tirokeftedes gets a very Queensland update with Moreton Bay bug in addition to the standard saganaki and feta. It all goes down very easily with an ocean-blue Poseidon Punch cocktail.
Alatonero, Vic
The outdoor tables under blue-and-white striped umbrellas are the prime spots at this laidback restaurant opposite the beach at McCrae on the Mornington Peninsula. The moussaka is a giant of the genre, packed with cinnamon-scented lamb and local potato, and the kids will love building their own souvlaki. If you’ve travelled down from Melbourne for the weekend, be sure to reward yourself with a round of Aperol spritzes and mezze boards.
Tzaki, Vic
Open seven days a week for lunch and dinner, and only accepting walk-ins, this buzzing all-rounder in the inner-Melbourne suburb of Yarraville is about as close as you can find to a backstreet Athens local. Produce is fresh and the plates are dynamic: you might get on-the-bone turbot with tarama and capers one day, a wedge of chargrilled cauliflower on a bed of tahini the next. Grab a seat at the bar and ask the team to bring whatever’s best.
Taverna, NSW
As bright as a Mykonos morning, this beachfront restaurant in the NSW Northern Rivers town of Kingscliff feels like a Greek vacation from the moment you step through its doors. The ouzo cocktail with rosemary and orange is an evocative way to kick things off and the charred octopus with feta and chilli oil is a must-order.
Akti, NSW
A tzatziki-inspired cocktail, swordfish in avgolemono and a fresh horiatiki, all with glittering superyacht views? No, you’re not in Corfu, this is Atki on Sydney’s Finger Wharf at Wooloomoolloo and it’s a sunny slice of Hellenic hospitality within splashing distance of the harbour. If you’re dining with a group, try one of the three family-sized banquets.
Homer Rogue Taverna, NSW
Many Greek restaurants in Australia take their cues from the islands but this gritty newcomer from brothers Mario and Harry Kapoulas in the southern Sydney seaside suburb of Cronulla looks to Athenian tavern culture for inspiration. Every recipe has a story and each plate is made to be passed around. To add to the familial atmosphere, customers are encouraged to grab their choice of assyrtiko straight from the fridge.
Ode to Sirens, WA
Vinyl on the turntable, casual courtyard seating and a late-night licence mean the drinks and share plates march out of the kitchen until the early hours at this Fremantle favourite. The mushroom moussaka may not be the most faithful rendition of this Greek classic but it’s equally as delicious as its meatier cousin. The halloumi saganaki with honey and chilli is also smashable.
Originally published https://www.qantas.com/travelinsider/en/explore/australia/best-greek-restaurants-australia.html
